2006 Mustang GT

[ruffcz]

Hello Justin,
We spoke last year about a Dyno Tune for my car.
Last weekend I finally brought my car to the Bradenton track. My best time was a 13.3 @ 99.5mph (2.00, 60 foot times) with 50/50 Water Methanol injection on Drag radials. I was quite dissapointed since I expected my car do do better,. especially with the upgrades to this car.
I noticed that my car (stock automatic) pulls hard in 1, 2, & 3rd however 4th seems to lag. 4th gear does not pull hard and I believe this is where I am loosing ETs and MPH. I was considering a VMP Dyno Tune but before I invest in the Dyno Tune I need to know if the Dyno Tune will improve my Ets and MPH. HP would be nice as well!
Note* I ran the car with the Overdrive and Traction Control off.

2006 Mustang GT Steeda Q400
Stock Automatic
410 gears
Steeda front & Rear suspension (G Force Suspension)
Vortec V2 SC with 10lbs of boost
39 injectors
90mm Throttle body
Coolingmist W/M injection (single 375ml nozzzle) set@ 3lbs min 6lbs max
Coil on plug upgrade (Summit)
Nitto Drag Radials (305/35/18)
X caliber 2 tuner (vortech tune)

So in light of this can a VMP Dyno Tune improvemy ETs and MPH
What cost to me.

Please advise,
Thanks,
Pat
ruffcz@aol.com

[J18369]

Just kind of stumbled upon this forum and your thread but something is obviously very wrong if you're only running a 13.3 with that setup, as people are able to get 13.5's stock and go into the 12's with some minor bolt-on's and gears. You should be at least in the low 11's. Did you load your tune correctly?

[ruffcz]

Hello J18369, I have loaded the Vortec Tune supplied by Steeda. There is not much room for any adjustments. I too believe my car should be running 12s or even 11s. There is something very wrong with my Tune, Steeda will not allow me to make many changes since the car is under warranty by them. But I am not concerned about the warranty since that will expire very soon. I know the car can do much more that is why I have inquired about a VMP tune. loosing power sucks.

Thanks for your feedback I am waiting on Justins feedback. Maybe after the easter holiday he will get back to me.

Pat
ruffcz@aol.com

[Justin@VMP]

Driving and launch goes a long way to getting a good ET, but your MPH is still really low. Do you let the car cool off between runs?

It is hard to say much without seeing the car and putting it on my dyno. If you do have me dynotune it, bring one smaller size nozzle, 375 could be too big. Make sure your plugs are gapped at .035". Your IAT sensor will also need to be mounted after the blower, and after the water injection point, for it to be safely tuned by me or any tuner.

[ruffcz]

Jason, Thanks for the response. The W/M injection system is after the sensor. My understanding from Snow injection and most W/M companies is that the nozzle is to be placed just before the Throttle body.
There is a location I can place the nozzle before the sensor (1 or 2 inches at best) however I do not believe that the W/M will atomize in time for the sensor to really do anything. I have Vortec Centrifical SC not much area before sensor.
What now?

[Justin@VMP]

Put the nozzle before the blower if necessary. I won't tune a car that is set up any other way, too many chances for it to blow up.

[ruffcz]

Justin, What if I located the sensor where the nozzle is (just in front of the Throttle body) and located the injector where the sensor was. About 8 to 10 inches away) would that be good.
however by doing that The W/M injection would have to travel around the bend in the intake tube. Is that a problem?

Sorry for all the questions but I do want to get it right.

Thanks,
Pat

[Justin@VMP]

that should be fine